Treasures of Nepal

A sprawling modern city of nearly a million inhabitants, the Nepali capital can feel overwhelmingly crowded and chaotic on first impressions. But head for its ancient core, where the Shah and Malla kings erected their resplendently gilded stupas, palaces and carved wood pagodas, and things improve dramatically. Durbar Square forms the epicentre of this superbly atmospheric quarter. More than fifty temples, 106 monastery courtyards (bahals) and countless shrines line its narrow, cobbled backstreets. Settle on to one of the terraced platforms of the Manju Devul tower to watch the exotic bustle of marigold sellers, saffron-clad sadhus, stray cows and pigeons.

After breakfast, head to the hilltop temple of Swayambhunath (colloquially known as ‘the Monkey Temple’ for its resident population of macaques) – a magnificent stupa, whose gilded tower and pair of huge, all-seeing eyes have become emblematic of Kathmandu. No less awe-inspiring is Boudhanath, the largest stupa in the country, also embellished with piercing eyes and strings of prayer flags dangling from a spectacularly gilded tower. Not far from Boudhanath on the banks of the Bagmati River to the east of Kathmandu stands Pashupatinath, Nepal’s holiest Shiva temple. Worshippers converge here in large numbers in the evenings, when the ghats are illuminated by hundreds of flickering lamps.

Jurassic-looking rhinos are the reserve’s big stars, as well as the more elusive tigers inhabiting its core zone. Sightings of Gharial crocs are almost guaranteed and be sure to visit the critically important breeding centre for vultures, which have declined to the point of extinction over the past fifteen years or so but survive here in healthy numbers.

 A handful of Gangetic dolphins survive in the Karnali River and these can be sighted on boat trips.

Pokhara is the only town in Nepal that could be described as a ‘resort’. Lying 198km west of the capital along the Prithvi Highway, it owes its popularity to the magical view of Machapuchare (‘Fish Tail’) reflected in the glassy waters of the adjacent Phewa Tal lake.

You can soak up the famous icy profile in a café on the lakeshore, or from the water on an evening boat cruise. Better still, climb to the Peace Pagoda overlooking the town for a truly jaw-dropping view of the Himalayan giants to the north, which soar from 1000m to 7,500m in less than 30km.

Newari traders from the Kathmandu Valley established Bandipur as a hub on the Indo-Tibet road in the late-18th century, bringing with them the rich architectural heritage which endures in the town to this day. Bypassed by the main Pokhara–Kathmadu highway, its core of brick and wood shop-houses and temple, beautifully embellished with traditional metal work and wood carving, has remained miraculously unsullied by concrete. Before supper, walk up to the old parade ground, or tudikhel, to enjoy the astounding sunset views of the Annapuras, Mansulu range and Marsyangdi Valley from the avenue of fig trees along its western edge.