Walking the Annapurnas

Forming the heartland of Nepal is a lush, fertile valley that has been a centre of sophisticated urban civilization for more than 2,500 years. At its centre lies the capital, Kathmandu, whose medieval core retains an unparalleled wealth of palaces, monasteries and temples. The architecture is fabulous, the many and varied cultures of its people compelling and the Himalayas quite literally, on the horizon – as you’ll have seen in dramatic fashion on your approach to the city’s airport!

After supper you’ll meet with your guide to discuss sightseeing options for the following day.

A sprawling modern city of over a million inhabitants, Kathmandu can feel overwhelmingly crowded and chaotic on first impression. But head for its ancient core, where the Shah and Malla kings erected their resplendently gilded stupas, palaces and carved wood pagodas, and things improve dramatically. Durbar Square forms the epicentre of this superbly atmospheric quarter. More than fifty temples, 106 monastery courtyards (bahals) and countless shrines line its narrow, cobbled backstreets. Settle on to one of the terraced platforms of the Manju Devul tower to watch exotic bustle of marigold sellers, saffron-clad sadhus, stray cows and pigeons.

On the northeast fringes of the city, Boudanath is Nepal’s largest stupa. The distinctive painted eyes on its flank and strings of prayer flags fluttering from its spectacularly gilded tower have made the monument the most iconic in the country. It stands at the terminus of the ancient trade route from Tibet – the last place of worship for travellers arriving in Kathmandu from Lhasa. Today, the area around the stupa serves as an important enclave for Tibetan refugees.

Not far from Boudanath on the banks of the Bagmati River to the east of Kathmandu is Pashupatinath, Nepal’s holiest Shiva temple. Hindus from across the country converge here during important festivals, when the cremation ghats in front of the shrine are illuminated by hundreds of flickering butter lamps. Dreadlocked sadhus smoking hashish pipes, musicians play devotional songs, and orange-robed priests perform ‘aarti’ provide great photo opportunities.

Newari traders from the Kathmandu Valley established Bandipur as a hub on the Indo-Tibet road in the late-18^th century, bringing with them the rich architectural heritage which endures in the town to this day. Bypassed by the main Pokhara–Kathmandu highway, its core of brick and wood shop-houses and temple, beautifully embellished with traditional metal work and wood carving, has remained miraculously unsullied by concrete. Moreover, superb views of the distant Himalaya are to be had from hilltop viewpoints around the town, reached via easy trails through the surrounding terraced fields and forests.

You’ll reach Pokhara towards the end of the afternoon. Lying 198km west of the capital along the Prithvi Highway, it owes its popularity to the magical view of Machapuchare (‘Fish Tail’) reflected in the waters of the adjacent Phewa Tal lake. Soak up this famous icy profile from a comfy café terrace on the lakeshore, or from the water on an evening boat cruise.

Today’s trekking is nearly all uphill, following long flights of stone steps that cut between the switchbacks of a jeep track, but the route keeps to a gradual incline and is shaded by trees for some of the way. Ghandruk (1940m) is a sizeable Gurung village, beautifully situated with panoramic views of the snow peaks, including the Annapurnas, Gangapurna, Mansulu and Machapuchare (‘FishTail’). Lunch will be in one of the rustic tea shops that punctuate the walk.

A relatively easy day today as you traverse the valley, cross a stream and begin a gradual ascent to Tadapani village, where you’ll be spending the night in a trekking lodge. This part of the route follows a leg of the popular Poon Hill trek, so you’ll probably pass plenty of fellow trekkers on the trail today.

Accommodation tonight will be in the Khopra Danda community lodge, a large, stone-walled building high on the ridgetop. It faces an astounding 360-degree panorama that takes in the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges.

Six to seven hours on the trail today will end at the village of Swatha (one of the few settlements in this region on level ground) where you’ll spend the night in a comfortable trekking lodge.

Mohare Danda (3,300m) sits on a hilltop midway between the Dhaulagiris and Annapurnas, offering fine views of both across the world’s deepest gorge. You’ll be spending the night in another well run community lodge.