The Parks of Central India

Made of white marble and crowned by a gilded onion dome, the Gurudwara Bangla Sahib and shimmering pool inside it are places of great sanctity for Indian Sikhs, and offer the most atmospheric introduction possible to capital. The complex in its present form dates from the late-18th century and was constructed at a place associated with the eighth Sikh Guru, Guru Har Krishnan, who resided in a bungalow on the spot. At a Langar, or ‘canteen’ in the temple, pilgrims are fed nourishing, free meals of chapatis and black dal by volunteers. If you’re lucky, you may see groups of Akalis, members of a Sikh warrior sect, dressed in traditional ceremonial garb.

A former royal hunting reserve, Ranthambore nestles at the foot of a dramatic escarpment crowned by a ruined fortress. Expanses of grassland, marsh, lakes and mixed deciduous forest enfold the rocky plateau – perfect terrain for tiger and the herds of sambar deer and other animals they prey on. Just over 60 big cats currently prowl the park and your chances of a sighting a very good. Apart from tigers, Ranthambore also supports thriving populations of leopard, sambar and chital deer, nilgai (black buck), bears, crocodiles, and two species of monkey. Safaris are conducted in open-topped Jeeps.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ranthambore Fort was built in the 11th century, and has seen numerous major battles and sieges. It retains numerous fortified gateways, domed pavilions and audience halls with cusped arched windows framing stupendous views across the surrounding countryside. If you can pass up the chance of a tiger sighting on an evening game drive, the walk around the ramparts at dusk is highly recommended.

Bandhavgarh, in the remote northeast of Madhya Pradesh state, boasts the highest tiger density of any park in the world, and although sightings are not guaranteed, they are more are frequent than anywhere else, and often spectacular. Former hunting reserve of the Maharaja of Rewa, the sanctuary encompasses an area of dry deciduous sal forest, craggy hills and open maidans (grasslands).

Cycling rides around the peripheries of the park, birding trips with trained guides and visits to ruined temples and local villages to watch bamboo weavers at work are among the activities on offer should you wish for a break from the safari schedule. Short elephant rides lasting around an hour are also available by prior arrangement.

It is often said that Kipling was inspired to write the Jungle Book by the landscape of the region now encompassed by Kahna National Park. And although the great British author never actually visited the area, the similarities between it and the fictional domain of Sher Kahn are numerous. Miles of mixed deciduous forest broken by grassy maidans provide the perfect terrain chital, barasingha and sambar, barking and swamp deer, on which the reserve’s healthy population of tigers and leopard prey.