Made of white marble and crowned by a gilded onion dome, the Gurudwara Bangla Sahib and shimmering pool inside it are places of great sanctity for Indian Sikhs, and offer the most atmospheric introduction possible to capital. The complex in its present form dates from the late 18th century and was constructed on a spot associated with the eighth Sikh Guru, Guru Har Krishnan, who resided in a bungalow on the spot. At a langar canteen in the temple, pilgrims are fed nourishing, free meals of chapatis and black dal by volunteers. If you’re lucky, you may see groups of Akalis, members of a Sikh warrior sect, dressed in traditional ceremonial garb.

Kashmir’s capital, Srinagar, is spread across the heart of the beautiful Kashmir Valley, crossed by a web of canals and the Jhelum river. Its numerous wooden mosques, Sufi shrines, Mughal gardens and, above all, houseboats moored on Dal and Nagin Lakes offer a memorable interlude in any Himalayan journey.

Spend your first afternoon enjoying the views of the lake and mountains from the deck of your houseboat.

Both the Shalimar Bagh and smaller Nishat Bagh nearby follow a classic Persian design, with elegantly symmetrical lawns, flower beds and fountains framing beautiful views over the water. Jehangir and his wife, Nur Jahan, loved them so much they spent thirteen summers relaxing here, attended by a vast entourage! Their favourite spots were the ornamental stone pavilions, or ‘baradaris’, where recitals of poetry and music were staged on moonlit nights.

Canopied Kashmiri canoes, or shikharas, are the ideal way to see the lake. As you cruise around, you’ll see men in long brown-wool pheran and knitted hats puffing on hookahs between strokes of their paddles; and low-slung canoes loaded with colourful cargoes of fruit, vegetables and flowers for sale at the city markets.

Stacked along the banks of the Jhelum River, Srinagar’s old quarter, Shehr e-Khas, is the most densely populated part of the city and the one retaining the highest concentration of ancient wooden buildings. Among them are several important mosques, including the 14th century Jama Masjid, whose central prayer hall is supported by 378 carved cedar pillars. A wealth of traditional Kashmiri art adorns the walls and ceiling of the Shah Hamdan Masjid, overlooking the river.

The old city is also the best place to shop for local handicrafts, including finely woven woollen shawls, carpets and papier maché items – though be prepared to haggle hard!

Thanks to the countless Bollywood song and dance sequences that have been filmed in the area over the years, hundreds of millions of Indians are familiar with the spectacular alpine scenery of Pahalgam. Distinguished by its lush green meadows, the village is flanked by dense pine forests and giant, snow-flecked crags. “A mini Switzerland” is how the scene is often described, though in truth, Pahalgam’s environs have a much wilder edge than the Alps.

Local ponies offer a leisurely way to explore the forested river valleys around Pahalgam. The area is inhabited mainly by semi-nomadic Gujjar shepherds, who live in low-roofed, stone villages nestled at the foot of giant deodar cedar trees. Expect to be beckoned in for a pot of refreshing kahwa tea.

The Liddar River, which flows through Pahalgam, is renowned for its brown and rainbow trout. The fishing season runs from April through October. With advance warning, we can arrange the requisite gear and permissions. Ask your TransIndus consultant for more information.

Gulmarg was first developed by the British as a hill station at the end of the 19th century. Apart from a recently added, French-built ski lift (the highest in the world), its attractions have changed little since the Raj era. The principal focal point is a large alpine meadow on which tourists picnic and take pony rides. Various trails also lead up the mountainside through forests of huge pines to glacial lakes and viewpoints from where, weather permitting, you can admire the snow-covered pyramid of mighty Naga Parbat (8,126m), nosing above the northern horizon in neighbouring Pakistan.

Gulmarg’s cable car is the second longest in the world, and also one of the highest, culminating at an altitude of 4,200m (13,780ft). The ride is divided into two sections, and we strongly recommend you do both: in clear weather the views from the top station are magnificent.

The hilltop overlooking Srinagar has been a holy site for many centuries. Archaeological digs have revealed traces of a Buddhist monastery dating back two millennia, while numerous traces of medieval Hindu temples remain, most notably a 9th century Shiva shrine on the summit crest, from where the panoramic views over the city and valley are splendid. You can either drive or walk up the hill.