One of the most atmospheric locations in the Indian capital, the Lodi Gardens enclose the domed tombs of three Sultans who ruled Delhi before the arrival of the Mughal dynasty, in the 15^th and 16^th centuries. Their architecture was inspired by that of the Timurids from Central Asia, but incorporates distinctively Indian features, creating a wonderfully exotic spectacle, especially in the warm light of late afternoon – in short, the perfect place to find your feet.

Pench straddles the southern border of Madhya Pradesh and northern border of neighbouring Maharashtra – a wild, and little visited tract of central Indian countryside bisected by the Pench River. Teak rather than sal dominates the forest here, creating a different atmosphere from the reserves you’ll be visiting later on this tour. The tiger population is stable and sightings occur more or less daily– although not for everyone. You’re more likely to come across packs of wild dogs and striped hyena, and the odd gaur (bison) lumbering through the forest.

With its miles of teak and bamboo forests, and open maidans of tall, bleached grass, the landscape of Pench National Park is straight off the pages of Rudyard Kipling’s Jungle Book. The reserve is home to 39 species of mammals, 13 types of reptile and over 170 varieties of birds, including barbets, bulbul, minivets, orioles, wagtails, munias, flycatchers, waterfowls and blue kingfishers, many of which can be seen in the camp’s own grounds, or from the comfort of your own verandah.

Wildlife is prolific at Kanha, with an estimated 200 tigers in residence. The long grass of the park’s maidans (grassy open spaces once occupied by tribal villages) provides perfect grazing for the sambar, chital and other deer and antelope on which the cats prey, and the odds of a sighting are high.  If a tiger is tracked by the park wardens after making a kill, guests at Kanha may ride on elephant to the place where it is hiding out, digesting its breakfast (usually in long grass) – a wonderful experience as you can usually view a cat at close quarters this way. The rest of day will consist of the regular Jeep drives through the park’s Buffer Zone.

Your hosts at Kanha Lodge have a passion for wildlife. Tarun, the lodge Manager, has an encyclopedic knowledge of wildlife whilst his wife, Dimple, was the first person to write a book on the wildflowers of Kanha.  She often takes guests for a nature walk around the property pointing out the colourful birds and butterflies and in the evenings, shares her knowledge of the night sky.  The youngest member of the family, is a real life Mowgli. Born and raised at the lodge, this young boy is often seen exploring the jungle, learning tracking skills and identifying the flora and fauna.

Cookery lessons and sari demonstrations are just some of the activities on offer at the lodge. Most guests enjoy a walk around the grounds where you can focus on the colourful birdlife, butterflies and insects.  If you head towards the river you may see even see elephants bathing, a wonderful sight as they splash and spurt water through their trunks.

Bandhavgarh is situated in the craggy Vindhya hills, where the local sal forests and grassy maidans inside the reserve host a wide array of wildlife: spotted deer, blackbuck, wild bison (gaur), sloth bear, sambar deer, nilgai and barking deer are commonly sighted, while chances of seeing a leopard or tiger are as strong as anywhere in India. The area also supports a rich and varied bird population, from vibrant golden orioles and parakeets to hornbills and partridges.

Boasting one of the highest tiger densities of any park in India, Bandhavgarh has an outstandingly high rate of big cat sightings. There are plenty of youngsters coming through, including a trio of cubs who survived the death of their mother in 2017 (due to a territorial dispute with another female) when their father began feeding and protecting them – unusual behaviour in tigers. According to the last census, around 50 live in the park, the majority of them in the core zone.

Hopefully you’ll have had plenty of great sightings in this park, and those preceding it on the tour, but if not, today will be your last chance, so fingers crossed! Rest assured you’ll be in safe hands, guided by expert naturalists who know the terrain and its tigers inside out, and who will be able to ensure the best odds of an encounter.

Depart for Jabalpur Airport, a transfer time of approximately four hours, where we’ll catch a flight back to Delhi.