Nepal Experience

A sprawling modern city of nearly a million inhabitants, the Nepali capital can feel overwhelmingly crowded and chaotic on first impressions. But head for its ancient core and things improve dramatically.

Durbar Square forms the epicentre of the old quarter. More than fifty temples, 106 monastery courtyards (bahals) and countless shrines line its narrow, cobbled backstreets and stone-paved piazzas. Settle on to one of the terraced platforms of the Manju Devul tower to watch the exotic bustle of marigold sellers, saffron-clad sadhus, stray cows and pigeons. In the evening, the group will convene for a 7-course Nepali banquet at the famous Bhojan Griha restaurant in Dillibazaar.

Separated from Kathmandu by the Bagmati River, Patan (also called Lalitpur or Manigal) is the Kathmandu Valley’s second largest town, boasting an even greater concentration of religious monuments than the capital. Most of them are grouped in the streets around Durbar Square – one of the world’s most beautiful piazzas – where the Royal Palace of the Malla kings houses a wonderful museum dedicated to Nepal’s sacred arts.

Newari traders from the Kathmandu Valley established Bandipur as a hub on the Indo-Tibet road in the late 18th century, bringing with them the rich architectural heritage that endures in the town to this day. Bypassed by the main Pokhara–Kathmadu highway, its core of brick and wood shop-houses and temple, beautifully embellished with traditional metal work and wood carving, has remained miraculously unsullied by concrete. Before supper, walk up to the old parade ground, or tudikhel, to enjoy the astounding sunset views of the Annapurnas, Mansulu range and Marsyangdi Valley from the avenue of fig trees along its western edge.

Pokhara is the only town in Nepal that could be described as a ‘resort’. Lying 198km west of the capital along the Prithvi Highway, it owes its popularity to the magical view of Machapuchare (‘Fish Tail’) reflected in the glassy waters of beautiful Phewa Tal lake. 

You can soak up the famous icy profile in a café on the lakeshore, or from the water on an evening boat cruise. Take the cable car up to the Peace Pagoda overlooking the town for a truly jaw-dropping view of the Himalayan summits to the north, which soar from 1000m to 7,500m in less than 30km. Your guide will be on hand to advise any keen walkers in the group who wish to undertake a short trek on their own.

The one-horned rhinoceros is emblematic of this area, which it shares with a handful of wild (as opposed to domestic) elephants, crocodile, buffalo and bison. Deer such as the spotted and swamp varieties along with sambar are ubiquitous but there are also antelopes, tigers and leopards, hyenas, sloth bears and jackals. A handful of gangetic dolphins survive in the Karnali River and these may be sighted on boat trips.

Get close to the Jurassic-looking rhinos that are Chitwan National Park's big stars, as well as the more elusive tigers inhabiting its core zone, on a jeep safari. Sightings of Gangetic dolphins and gharial crocs are almost guaranteed on the river, which you can explore by canoe. Later, visit the local Tharu village and a co-operative that uses elephant dung to make artisanal paper.

Sauraha is a village in Chitwan District of Nepal situated close by the Rapti River and the Chitwan National Park. It is the eastern gateway to Chitwan National Park and jungle safaris. Beginning literally as a small and very quaint Tharu village of mud and daub huts and houses, with a half dozen mud and daub hotels, it has grown into a small quiet town full of western style hotels and resorts, restaurants, internet cafes, and gift shops.

Bhaktapur boasts another impressive concentration of medieval palaces, bahals (monastery courtyards) and monumental squares – all in high Newari style. Despite being Nepal’s third city, it’s a much more easygoing destination thanks to the absence of traffic from its historic core. Wandering the pretty cobbled streets around Durbar Square, you’ll see traditional potters’, weavers’ and wood-carvers’ workshops, and local people spreading raw rice to dry in the sun.