Puskhar really comes alive during the annual mela, or fair, held over the full-moon of Karthik month (which usually falls in November). Hundreds of thousands of Hindu pilgrims pour in from across the region to take a redemptory dip in the h…

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Visiting the Dargah Like most religious sites in Asia, the Dargah can be an assault on the senses if you’re a relative newbie to Indian travel. But don’t let that put you off. For the few overseas visitors who make it to Ajmer’s hallowed ‘…

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Wander into the fields around Pushkar before dawn and you’ll see dozens of families plucking roses in the shadow of Nag Pahar mountain. The picking has to be done this early to catch the flowers before the buds open in order to preserve the…

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Crowning a pinnacle in the Aravalli Mountains, Kumbalgarh is the loftiest of the region’s many fortress-palaces, and a prominent landmark in the anals of Rajasthan. Its creator, Rana Kumbha, who ruled in the mid-15th century, is something o…

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Horses have played a major role in the culture of Rajasthan for over a thousand years. In the 11th and 12th centuries, local rulers developed a distinct breed from a mixture of desert ponies and Arabian stallions. Known as the ‘Marwari’, it…

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There’s no better time to savour the extraordinary spectacle of Jodhpur’s skyline than just after sunrise, when the colours are at their most vivid. Mehrangarh Fort is the obvious viewpoint to head for, but has its drawbacks: not least the…

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Ask anyone who has stayed at beautiful Bhainsrogarh Fort, in southeast Rajasthan, to name the most memorable moments of their trip, and ‘the boat ride on the Chambal River’ will invariably feature. The fort sits atop a dramatic escarpment o…

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In late-Jan/Feb, religious music from across the globe steps into the spotlight at two historic venues in Rajasthan: Jodhpur and Nagaur forts. ‘The World Sacred Spirit Festival’ showcases performers from a broad variety of countries and tra…

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For thousands of years, livestock herders have migrated across the plains of Rajasthan with their camels, sheep and goats. Caravans of ‘Rabari’ or ‘Raika’, as the pastoralists are known, used to be a common sight in the region but their num…

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Experience a hidden, more authentic side to the city on our popular walking tour. It starts at Gangaur Ghat’s ornately carved Hindu shrines, and from there winds through the temples, stepwells and narrow bazaars of the old city to a traditi…

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In times past, those hardy souls who undertook the journey across the Thar Desert used to overnight on the cold sand with their camels for company. Now travellers can sleep in a style fit for a Maharaja in regal hunting tents and dine on go…

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Surrounded by 99 barrel-shaped bastions, Jaisalmer’s golden fort encloses a medieval town of richly carved mansions and temples, all made from the same honey-coloured sandstone. Unlike most such citadels in India, this one is still very muc…

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