In Search of Sri Lanka's Big Five

Galle is an atmospheric, colonial-era port that flourished under the Portuguese and, later, the Dutch, who added bastions and a pair of gateways to its rambling 17^th-century walls. These can still be enjoyed today and form a charismatic backdrop for ambles around the old town, whose pretty period houses and cobbled streets are huddled on the tip of a peninsula, surrounded on three sides by ocean and on the fourth by the famous cricket ground. A good target for an acclimatizing stroll would be the lighthouse, reached via a breezy promenade along the top of the ramparts.

Sri Lanka’s shoreline lies unusually close to the continental shelf, which means the deep waters where whales congregate may be easily reached by boat from the south coast. Good sightings occur on nine out of ten trips. On this TransIndus tour you’ll be taking a trip on a luxury catamaran, complete with chef to whip up a delicious full breakfast and a three-course lunch. Returning to port, the crew will anchor for a spot of paddle boarding and swimming. All equipment will be provided.

Galle’s colourful history is etched across the streets of its fort, and on our popular walking tour a local expert will guide you through the highlights, bringing the past vividly to life with tales of sieges, shipwrecks and skirmishes between the European powers.

After dark, enjoy a delicious Sri Lankan hopper with prawn curry and spicy sambol sauces at a local restaurant, or push the boat out with a slap-up supper of melt-in-the-mouth grilled tuna or crab – both great Galle delicacies.

The 34-sq-mile (88-sq-km) Sinharaja Forest Reserve is the country’s last viable area of primary tropical rainforest. Damp, dense and extraordinarily fecund, the reserve is best visited in the relatively dry months of August and September, and from January to April. Birders should note the striking phenomenon of mixed species of foraging flocks, comprising up to 50 species on occasions. Several nature trails, ranging from gentle walks to strenuous full-day hikes, offer an intimate experience of this pristine forest. You’ll arrive in time for a two- to three-hour guided walk in the evening.

The only way to explore Sinharaja’s protected forest is on foot, which will give you the best chances of great bird sightings. An amazing 147 species have been recorded in the reserve, among them 21 of the island’s 26 endemics; the green-billed coucal and Sri Lankan blue magpie both regularly put in appearances. Botanists are also in for a treat, with 500 types of indigenous plants present, which attracts a wealth of exotic butterflies and other insect life. You may be offered the opportunity to take a night walk with your naturalist-guide, when you’re likely to see several species of bats and possibly a civet cat or two.

When it comes to spotting leopards, the woodlands and scrub of Yala National Park are unrivalled. This is the country’s most popular reserve, with varied landscapes encompassing forest, parkland, rocky outcrops, small lakes and lagoons. Despite the prolific birdlife and large herds of roaming elephant, the big cats are why most people come. Yala currently has around a population of 35 – among the highest densities anywhere in the world. Sightings, however, remain a matter of luck. A typical jeep safari with an obligatory tracker covers just one section of the park and the best encounters tend to be along the rougher, lesser-used tracks.

You’ll be staying at a camp from where access to three of the least used entrances is relatively easy, allowing you to explore regions visited by far fewer vehicles than those closer to the majority of Yala’s accommodation.

Scores of migratory birds flock to breed on Bundala’s chain of brackish coastal lagoons, or ‘lewaya’. The landscape is not quite as pretty here as at nearby Yala, but it’s correspondingly quieter, which our clients tend to consider a good trade off. Iconic photo opportunities include grazing pink flamingos (this is their last stronghold on the island) and wild peacocks perched in rosewood trees. You also stand a good chance of sighting elephant, crocodile and spoonbills.

Despite its astounding scenery and plentiful wildlife, Gal Oya, in southeast Sri Lanka, sees surprisingly few visitors, which is why it’s one of our favourite parks in Asia. This is also the only reserve on the island where you can go on safari by boat to see wild elephants swimming. Look out for crocs in the shallows, jackals and buffalo on the shoreline, and wild peacocks perched in the treetops.

 ‘Monkey Mountain’ is one of the prominent peaks overlooking the Lodge at Gal Oya. It takes around an hour and a half to reach the top, where an astounding view over the valley is the reward for a stiff climb, aided by slender trees which bend as you hold them for support – the source of the mountain’s name.

Pangolins are the star species of the forest hereabouts, and if you’re lucky you’ll catch sight of one, along with numerous other kinds of insects and amphibians, as you trek through the jungle on your final evening at Gal Oya.

The dry zone in the centre of the island holds a trio of contiguous national parks: Minneriya, Kaudulla and Hurulu. Your resident naturalist-guides will decide on the best to visit, taking into account the latest sightings. 

At the heart of the protected zone stands the famous Minneriya Tank, a huge 3rd century reservoir surrounded by forest, grasslands and marshes. Elephants are the main attraction here, particularly during the famous ‘Gathering’ of August and September when hundreds of pachyderms graze and bathe in the cool waters of the ancient reservoir.

Crossing a dreamy seascape of low-lying marshland, sand bars and shallow, blue-green water, the journey over the causeway to Mannar is a memorable one undertaken by few foreigners. Look out for flocks of flamingos as you approach the island, which is something of a world apart from the rest of the country. It’s replete with mythological associations, being one of the stepping stones over which Rama and Hanuman’s monkey army marched to rescue Sita from the clutches of the demon Ravana in the Hindu epic the Ramayana.

Believed to have originally been introduced by Arab and Somali traders in the 15th century, donkeys are a distinctive feature of Mannar life. A sanctuary here cares for stray animals who have been abandoned by their owners because they have fallen ill and are no longer able to work.

The vast open flood plains, salt marshes, mangroves and dunes of Mannar Island provide the perfect habitat for migratory birds. Flocks of pink and white flamingos are a highlight along with black-tail godwits, pintail ducks and white-bellied sea eagles.

Culture and history rather than nature take centre stage in the afternoon as you explore Mannar fort, built by the Portuguese 450 year ago. Another remnant of the island’s pivotal role in the seaborne commerce of the Indian Ocean is a huge baobab tree – one of four planted by Arab traders.

Having freshened up and explored the extensive grounds of the Mud House, head off to visit a local hilltop temple, reached via a flight of 120 steps. This is a great introduction to the area as the views over the surrounding farmland and forest are superb. At sunset, head off to the lake nearby in search of birdlife, keeping your eyes peeled for lorises in the tree branches.

Most of the roads around the property are made of earth and the local village of Paramakanda was only connected to mains electricity in 2012. The nearest town, Anamaduwa, is slowly moving with the times but retains a very traditional, simple charm and is worth a visit, particularly on Fridays when it hosts a market.

Vast networks of man-made ‘tanks’ (lakes) are used to irrigate the paddy fields around the Mud House, and these also support a wide array of wildlife, from ibexes and pelicans to giant squirrels and boar, to say nothing of the exotic dragonflies and butterflies constantly flitting through. This is one place you can actually feel like you’re on safari while swaying in a hammock!