A Sri Lanka Wildlife Holiday

Jutting like a small peninsular into the Indian Ocean from Sri Lanka’s southwestern tip, Galle is a picturesque, colonial-era fortified town acclaimed as the finest of its kind in Asia. The 18th-century Dutch walls, bastions, ramparts and gateways form a charismatic backdrop for easy ambles around the narrow lanes of old town, lined with pretty colonial-style houses and mansions. A charming jumble of cafés and shops offer excuses to linger. The area also holds a number of fine beaches – you could well be staying in a luxury hideaway right next to one.

Backed by a dense stand of coconut palms, this small but beautiful gold-sand beach is especially pretty after dark when its lantern-lit waterfront restaurants get going, serving up some of the island’s finest seafood. It’s also the best place to go whale-watching in Sri Lanka, with majestic blue and sperm whales regularly sighted just a few miles out to sea.

November–April is the whale watching season along this stretch of coast. Five species are regular visitors: Blue whales, Bryde´s whales, Sperm whales, Fin whales, and sometimes Killer whales, along with four species of dolphin. Marine turtles, Bluefin tuna and flying fish also put in regular appearances.

When it comes to spotting Sri Lanka’s leopards, the dry woodlands and scrub of Yala National Park are unsurpassed. It’s the country’s oldest and most popular reserve, with varied landscapes ranging from forest, parkland, rocky outcrops, small lakes and lagoons to coastal dunes. Despite the prolific birdlife, herds of roaming elephants and chances of spotting the elusive sloth bear, most visitors come here to see the leopards. There are an estimated 35 of them – among the highest population densities anywhere in the world – and you’ll stand a much better chance of a sighting if you stick around all day. Crocs and elephant are also plentiful.

Dominated by extensive plains interspersed with occasional hills and rocky outcrops, Udawalawe National Park encompasses a tract of savannah grasslands interspersed with marsh and lagoons – an ideal habitat for around 200 species of birds, and the park’s 600 resident elephants. Other creatures you are likely to encounter include various wild cats and leopard, several species of deer, jackals, civets and boar. The nearby Elephant Transit Home cares for orphaned calves before their reintroduction to the wild.

In complete contrast to Udawalawe’s relative aridity, Sinharaja is damp, dense and extraordinarily fecund. Birders will relish the chance to watch mixed flocks foraging – a record 48 species have been noted feeding together on occasions. Several nature trails ranging from gentle walks to strenuous full-day hikes lend a wonderfully intimate if not soggy experience of this special forest. You’ll encounter numerous kinds of reptiles (21 of the island’s 45 endemics are present here).

Despite a lack of formal sights, the city is a satisfying place to bookend an itinerary. The banking enclave known as ‘Fort’ ‒ the original Dutch and Portuguese hub ‒ is a curious blend of modern offices and 19th-century streets occupied by hotels and stores. Alongside it, Pettah is a busy market area dotted with churches and mosques. There’s more refined shopping ‒ and this is a great way to conclude a holiday ‒ at the dainty boutiques and upmarket shops of Kollupitiya and Bambalapitiy.