Sometime dubbed ‘Snore’ by its (mostly youthful) detractors, Sanur is the most laid back of the main resorts on the south coast – one of many reasons why we like it so much! The others are the spellbinding views of Gunung Agung’s conical top to the northeast, excellent diving sites and facilities, and the abundance of space on the beach itself – a beautiful, 5-km spread of golden sand fringed by palm trees and vivid turquoise water. A wide choice of courses are also on offer in the village: from Balinese cookery to traditional Indonesian circus skills.

Dramatic mountain slopes plunge steeply to a shoreline edged by beautiful black-sand beaches and bays of beautiful turquoise water along Bali’s northern coastline. A perfect base from which to explore this refreshingly uncongested area is the resort of Lovina, a popular centre for dolphin spotting as well as diving and snorkelling. Within easy reach of a day trip lie Bali’s largest Buddhist monastery, the Brahmavirhara Arama, and hot springs of Banjar Tega, where you can wallow in healing sulphurous water. Surrounded by a glassy moat, the eleven-tiered pagodas of Taman Ayun rank among the most exotic spectacles punctuating the journey north.

A delightful way to experience a corner of the island little affected by tourism is to trek through the forests and farms surrounding Sekar Mukti village. The route, which starts at the 18-hectare Bagus Agro Pelaga estate, takes you through a mix of jungle, flower fields and orchards, passing pretty farmsteads where you’ll have numerous opportunities to interact with local people. The excursion also includes a visit to the Pucak Mangu Temple, a wonderfully exotic Balinese shrine located high on a hilltop overlooking Lake Bratan.

One of the most memorable experiences Bali’s north coast has to offer is watching the sun rise over the sea off Lovina Beach. Dozens of dolphins feed and play in the calm water at this time of day. Up until a couple of decades ago, they used to have an extraordinary bond with local fishermen, guiding their outriggers to shoals of mackerels and sardines in return for a share of the spoils! Old habits, it seems, die hard: the dolphins still like to congregate around boats, jumping joyfully out of the waves for the cameras.

For many visitors, watching the sunrise over the caldera of Gunung Batur, with the lower slopes of the volcano enveloped in a sea of cloud, is reason enough to come to Bali – and ample reward for the strenuous 30–60-minute climb through pre-dawn darkness to the mountain’s summit. Once the sun is clear of the horizon, a dramatic panorama over the lake and surrounding peaks is revealed. In the afternoon, don’t miss the chance to visit Pura Ulun Danu Batur temple, whose eleven-roofed pagoda rises against a spellbinding backdrop, reflected in the glassy waters of Lake Batur.

Development has been slow to gather pace on Bali’s quiet northeastern coast, where a string of low-key resorts and pretty villages are dotted along a spectacular shoreline known as Amed. Colourful catamarans idle on grey-pebble and black-sand beaches, against a backdrop of hills sweeping straight from the shoreline. This dramatic hinterland lends a vivid edge to swims in the translucent waters off-shore, whose coral reefs swirl with colourful marine life.

Ranging from black volcanic to stunning shell-sand, the beaches lining the island’s northeast coast number among the loveliest in all of Indonesia. Inland, mighty Gunung Agung forms a striking backdrop for swims in the transparent, turquoise water.

Ubud is the best place in Bali to experience traditional dance and ritual arts. The town is jam-packed with pretty little stalls and workshops where you can watch artisans at work and browse an astonishing range of quality local handicrafts. The thatched villages around it offer windows on the island’s more traditional way of life. The Mother Temple for Balinese Hindus, Besakih, at the foot of Gunung Agung, is another popular day trip. Crowds of worshippers laden with floral offerings file around the site’s 20 different temples and innumerable subsidiary shrines, spread over a 3-km area interconnected by ascending terraces, colonnaded walkways, long, steep flights of steps and ceremonial gateways.

One of most magical locations to start your day’s sightseeing is the town’s beautiful Botanical Park, a wonderland of lilies, weeping figs, orchids and rainforest plants. Linger for lunch at the Chocolate House Café, housed in a century-old teak hut. Then sample the local art scene at the nearby Neka Art gallery. Another must-see is the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, on the south side of town, where over 200 macaques congregate in a patch of dense forest scattered with old stone shrines. Afterwards, grab your paddle and enjoy an adrenalin-fuelled white-water rafting trip on the Agung River.

Richly costumed Barong and Kris dance are specialities of Ubud, and you’ll be able to attend a recital today in the Puri Saren Palace, accompanied by live Gamelan music performed against a backdrop of beautiful old temples. While you’re waiting for the show to start you can wander around the adjacent Water Palace, with its pretty tropical lily ponds. Villages around the town specialize in a variety of traditional crafts. Celuk is the place for jewellery; Batubulan is acclaimed for its stone carvings; and Mas for its wood sculpture. Your guide will know the best galleries.

Standing in marked contrast to Lovina and the north, Seminyak is Bali at its most sleek and sophisticated. Get your bearings with a browse of the hip boutiques along Jalan Laksmana. We particuarly love the hand-dyed garments at the Simple Konsep Store, which rework traditional Balinese batik in novel ways.