Known in colonial times as ‘Amoy’, Xiamen is the most approachable, well-groomed city on China’s eastern seaboard, and one filled with fascinating vestiges of the 19th century, when traders from Japan and Europe settled here in large numbers. The low-rise enclave behind the seafront, with its restored Neoclassical villas and winding backstreets, is a delight to explore on foot, while pretty Gulangyu Island, across the straits, holds numerous old residences recently designated as UNESCO World Heritage monuments.