The largest and best-looking city in Malaysian Borneo is Kuching, on the banks of the Sarawak River, at the southwestern edge of the territory. Relaxed and atmospheric, it has managed to preserve much of its historic core of narrow streets and colonial-era municipal buildings, all within a stone’s throw of a breezy waterfront promenade.

The mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian, as well as indigenous Dayak, makes for a fascinating cultural jigsaw, while a particularly strong crop of museums provides an inspirational introduction to the island and its traditional societies. Moreover, Kuching’s sophisticated hotels and restaurants lie within easy range of day trips to ten or more first-rate wildlife reserves.