The hour after sunrise, while the rest of the world is breakfasting, is the time to be at wonderful Ta Prohm, a stone’s throw east of Angkor Thom. Restoration work has been kept to a minimum in this hauntingly beautiful temple, originally founded in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII. Like octopus tentacles enveloping their prey, the roots of giant banyans, strangler figs and kapok trees still enfold much of the stonework, creating scenes little changed since those that greeted the French adventurers who first rediscovered Angkor in the 1850s.