Koh Ker’s Prasat Thom temple (125km/75 miles northeast of Siem Reap), rises in awesome fashion from the surrounding jungle, its platforms draped in weeds and sides streaked by rain wash. A flight of steps leads to the top for a spectacular view over the surrounding countryside.

For the full Indiana Jones experience, Beng Mealea (40km/25 miles east of Angkor) is hard to beat. Here, the forest is still king: buttressed-root trees grow behind elaborately sculpted door lintels and the smiles of apsara maidens are glimpsed behind curtains of leaves – all achingly poignant, and splendid.