The best place to experience the traditional Naga culture is the annual Hornbill Festival, staged near the state capital, Kohima, in early December. In addition to performances of songs and dances, the event features displays of crafts, sports, herbal medicine, archery and wrestling. We generally recommend clients stay at a luxury camp near the showground, alternating trips to the festival with visits to local villages. Far from the formidable characters you might expect them to be, the Nagas today are unfailingly welcoming and delighted to be the subject of so much attention.