This long, rugged island straggles across Nusa Tenggara Province, its mountainous volcanic spine soaring to an impressive 2,500m (8,200ft). Portuguese traders were responsible for the name – a homage to its verdant flanks, which tumble from the rocky peaks inland through pine forests and terraces of coffee, cocoa, rice, bananas and spices to a coastline indented with beautiful powder-sand beaches. Labuan Bajo, the ramshackle capital on the western side of Flores, serves as a springboard for boat trips to Komodo and Rinca, home of the eponymous ‘dragon’. Linger a few days and you’ll be able to follow the sinuous trans-island highway into the hills, passing a string of tiny Catholic churches and tin-roofed villages belonging to the island’s Christian indigenous communities. Reached by a 3-4 hour hike from Denge, through

Linger a few days and you’ll be able to follow the sinuous trans-island highway into the hills, passing a string of tiny Catholic churches and tin-roofed villages belonging to the island’s Christian indigenous communities. Reached by a 3-4 hour hike from Denge, through fragrant rainforest, the village of Wae Rebo is much-photographed thanks to its 7 conical, palm-thatched mbaru niang houses, made in traditional style by the Manggarai minority and set amid a spellbinding amphitheatre of peaks. The most popular day trip on Flores, however, is to Kelimutu, a dormant volcano whose three summit lakes, cradled inside lunar-like craters, constantly change

The most popular day trip on Flores, however, is to Kelimutu, a dormant volcano whose three summit lakes, cradled inside lunar-like craters, constantly change colour. A 4 am start is required to reach the summit in time for sunrise, which you can enjoy over a hot cup of coffee or a bowl of steaming noodles from one of the vendors who also make the trek each morning.